(Engelsk text)
Saddles and Saddlefit
The saddle has many variations and tasks, and depending on how you ride, the horse you have and how we are as a rider, you should choose different saddles.
The saddle shall:
• Distribute the rider's weight
• Leave room for the horse's spine
• Allow free movements for the shoulders
• Improve the rider's seat and support
• Place the rider correct on the horse's back
There are several saddles to choose from. The most common is saddles with a tree, but there are also saddles with a leathertree and also completely without. The treeless saddles have been a tremendous upsurge in recent years, but is far from a new invention. They have been around as long as the saddle has been.
Tree
A saddle with tree is recommended if you ride a lot or have an unstable seat.
Treesaddles is in general the best to distribute the wieght of the rider, but also the saddle that removes most of the rider helps.
Are you unsure whether you are straight in your seat or if you are riding out without major ambitions treesaddles is preferable.
Leathertree
A saddle with leathertree recommended if you ride a lot "dressage" work and have a solid seat that you can control well.
This tree can be distorted and is therefore not suitable for everyone. The leathertree let through a lot of help and gives a close and good contact with the horse.
This can be a disadvantage if you can not control your seat when the horse is incorrect under the influence of the rider.
Treeless
A saddletree has several advantages but also disadvantages that must be considered.
The rider's weight distributes worst of these trees, but often enough that it no problems attending to ride 'dressage' or to ride out with it.
It is not suited for jumping or otherwise exposing it to great pressure.
There is a front arch of the treeless saddles, which must contain the right size, but otherwise you need only to check that the saddle has clear space for withers and spine. At most, it is also quite easy to change the arch, making it suitable if you have several horses of various sizes. Or if you have a horse that you know will change much in his back.
It is also possible with a treeless to make it uneven, after some years if you dint have a straight position.
Saddle Fitting
If you choose a Treeless saddle, you only see on the saddle length, and point b and d under the seat dimensions. Also review our Checklist for saddles below!
1st Seat length
a. Start by looking up the rear tip of the scapula. This can be found most easily by going back of the withers and feel down on the horse. Then go back three fingers and following the right way up and put a mark on the field. Where the cursor is, you have the eighth or ninth dorsal vertebra. Here begins the horse saddle position and saddle should under no circumstances ever be placed later than this.
b. then locate the rearmost rib. This you can easily find my front wing. Then follow this up to the horse's spine and put a marker there as well. Where the cursor is now, you have the 18th dorsal vertebra.
c. Now you have until the 13th dorsal vertebra. Counting from the 18th and work your way forward. Put a marker on the 13th dorsal vertebra. This vertebra shows every rider should sit in the middle of. As you will see it is this area further back than you normally sit in the bareback riding. This is a drawback to ride bareback, and that you often get a lower seat.
d. Then measure from the cursor to the last. The dimension you get is the maximum length of seat.
2nd The seat dimensions
a. When you have these markers, you can get your horse's measurements. Take for example a steel wire, along with the horse's spine to the middle of the thread of 13th dorsal vertebra (middle mark on the wire). Draw the outline to get a piece of paper (which is part of the horse). Be sure that it rests against the horse perfect.
b. Then take the wire and put the first marker and shape it right down over the horse. Be sure that it is perfect here. Drawing of a piece of paper.
c. Then take the wire back and do the same thing as paragraph b of the rear marker
3rd Checklist for saddle fitting
a. Size. Go through The seat length above and see if this is true. Is the saddle to short? Its ok for the horse but not for your seat.. Is the saddle to long, do not use it. The Damage that will be, in use of a too long saddle is not worth it!
b. Channel. Is the channel narrow, It gives pain at the withers and over the back and can also cause inflammation of the withers, and restrict the horse's movements.
Channel is too wide the saddle goes down and press at the withers and / or back on the horse. The channel should have the same shape as the horse has and should make a good place for the spine to move without the risk of squeezing from the top to make it too wide.
c. The CG. Saddle emphasis should be placed over the 13th vertebra (see explanation above under the seat height, point C). This is obviously impossible to see with the naked eye and therefore if you look after the saddle is as high up as the back and when you sit in the saddle, sit straight up and down the middle of the saddle without feeling that you tip back or forward. Be sure to try this in motion as well as stagnant.
d. Contact area. The seat should be evenly in contact with the horse's back.
Is it the scale gives the pressure in the middle of his back and is on the straight gives the pressure at the front and rear.
Put the saddle and push forward and back of the saddle, the tilt of the bucket. Stick your hand gently over (without lifting the saddle!) And feel if there is air between the horse and saddle. It is best if you can ride with a material between horse and saddle so you can see if there is an even footprint.
You get what you pay for!
This is so true when it comes to saddles! Make sure you buy quality, a saddle should last for at least 5-10 years! And should fit you and the horse during every moment of riding.
Carola Lind
